Sant’Oreste The Heart of the Italian Apennines

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WORDS Laura Danieli

Close to Mount Soratte, the Italian mountain ridge in the province of Rome, you’ll find a small natural treasure: the picturesque town of Sant’Oreste, my hometown. Inhabited by about 4,000 people, the village of Sant’Oreste is a pearl of tradition dating back to before the great Roman Empire. But what makes my hometown so unique? Let’s find out.

Historical bunkers

In 1937, the fascist leader Benito Mussolini ordered the construction of several tunnels inside Mount Soratte due to its proximity to the capital Rome. They served as a refuge from the bombing raids for the highest offices of the Italian Army and were built under the pretence of being factories for weapons. It was one of Europe’s largest military ventures!

During the years of the Cold War, they were transformed into anti-atomic bunkers. According to legend, a chest full of gold that amounted to billions of dollars was hidden in the galleries. To date, this chest has never been found.

The place where the bunkers are located is now a tourist destination for people coming from all over Europe. Every month, guided tours of the galleries are organised. You should definitely go on a tour, which offers a complete re-creation of the historic times. German commanders and officers walk beside you; old cars parade through the streets, military aircrafts circle above your heads; you can even drive a tank with a commander. The purpose of the elaborate tour is to perfectly evoke the wartime atmosphere: it is like taking a trip into the past.

Religion, festivities & celebrations

In Sant’Oreste, religion is a strong hallmark. This is visible by the presence of many churches perched on Mount Soratte, which is known as the Holy Mountain. The churches are known as ‘Eremi’ (monastery). They were once inhabited by monks and also housed legendary wandering figures, characters then recognised as saints; this makes the atmosphere that surrounds these buildings even more magical.

A view of the celebrations for the Madonna di Maggio festival on the last Sunday in May. The mountain begins to burn and lights are displayed in a show of colour.
Photo: Ilenia Ferracuti

Among the major monasteries, along the mountain trails, you can easily reach the churches of St Romana and of St Silvestro, but perhaps the most notable structure remains the sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie, dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

It is today the destination of many pilgrims who visit the church on the second Sunday after Easter every year, a day of great celebration for the village. A long procession moves towards the sanctuary, singing songs to the Virgin, and women carry rose petals in baskets which they scatter along the streets. The tiny roads become an elegant red carpet for the Virgin, complete with floral fragrance from the petals.

Many festivities and celebrations retain a typically religious trait too and, without any doubt, the feast of the Madonna di Maggio (celebrated on the last Sunday in May each year) has made Sant’Oreste unique and well known among all the neighbouring towns. Actually, preparations start a month earlier, when women, children, and even the elderly begin to decorate every corner of the town with papier-mâché flowers, coloured lights, strings of fresh flowers, sacred effigies, banners made of fabrics and bright materials and paintings made by elementary school children.

On the festival day, a long religious procession takes place and in the background, a group of children play religious music, others dance in medieval clothing. But the real show is once again on the mountain. The sacred mountain completely burns, thanks to the lights placed along its paths. At the mountain’s peak, there are wonderful multi-coloured fireworks – fire is a symbol of purification for the soul. Everybody participates, including religious and civil authorities from each bordering town.

There are also other festivals with no religious characteristics, like Festa dei Vicoli, which means Alley’s Feast – a celebration where the most unknown and unusual streets of the town are decorated in medieval style. The town squares are set up as large banquets and antique markets. Storytellers walk around, adding to the recreation of the medieval village atmosphere.

Local food, delicious tastes

The Italian cuisine is renowned throughout the world. It’s a simple blend of sophisticated but intense flavours has been exported all over the globe. Sant’Oreste knows this, but what sets it apart is that in my hometown it’s possible to find the perfect synthesis of Italian good taste and the authenticity of the simple, traditional dishes. It’s no surprise that people visiting the Italian peninsula remain speechless when they sit down to enjoy a meal.

The tank placed in the bunkers area, an M60 tank, was developed and built in Italy. The M60 model was introduced in the 1960s and is still used by some military.
Photo: Ilenia Ferracuti

Some dishes contain ancient traditions of Sant’Oreste, since they are the result of recipes that are decades and decades old but the ingredients are cheap and easy to find. My favourite is ’tisichelle’ (a circular shaped, soft and thick cookie) and ‘conferzini’ (biscuits with a rectangular shape, quite hard and crunchy, with anise and hazelnuts inside). These are typical Christmas sweets made with ingredients such as eggs, butter, sugar, nuts and wine.

Another typical Santorestese dish is the ‘Panemmole’ (wet bread) with chickpeas – made by spreading boiled beans on bread, so that they become a soup. Ask the elders of Sant’Oreste, they will be glad to give you a quick demonstration! One of my favourite restaurants, ‘Ristoro del Soratte’ serves incredible fettuccine (thin strips of pasta) with truffles, ravioli (half-moon shaped pasta stuffed with meat) with creamy pumpkin and shrimps, wild boar stew, meat and fish delights prepared in a cosy setting with a view from the mountain.

Sant’Oreste is a tiny village but its unique concentration of history, nature and traditions makes it well worth exploring. Its geographical isolation by the majestic Mount Soratte adds to its character and peaceful setting. The village will leave you enchanted.

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