My Dolce Vita Living in Calabria

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WORDS Alessandra Biafora 

A well-known journalist and writer, Guido Piovene claimed: ‘La Calabria sembra essere stata creata da un Dio capriccioso che dopo avere creato diversi mondi, si è divertito a mescolarli insieme.’ Literally translated, this means: ‘Calabria seems to have been created by a capricious God who, after creating different worlds, was amused to mix them together.’ These words ring true if you are lucky enough to travel through the heart of Calabria. Here you’ll see an inspiring blend of magical with mystical, especially in some of the less frequently travelled areas of the province.

History has been particularly kind to Calabria, which the ancient Greeks colonised in the eighth century BC. Others followed – Romans, Saracens, Byzantines, Normans, Spanish and French among them. These nations made the land of Calabria rich in diverse, yet unique characteristics. In fact, the ancient land of Greek settlements are full of splendid churches and monasteries where the old traditions of the colonisers still survive.

The warm climate, the beautiful colours of the sea, the rocky coastline that alternates with sandy beaches, untamed nature, the strong and genuine flavour of the local food and its ancient origins make Calabria a special place to visit. I suggest you settle down somewhere, stay a few days, set out each morning with a scuba mask and fins, pack a lunch of cheese, bread, fresh tomatoes, fruit and a bottle of water, and arm yourself with plenty of suntan lotion. It promises to be a memorable seaside vacation in Italy.

Tropea

There is a magical atmosphere surrounding this small village, which is described as the pearl of Calabria. The legend says the founder was Hercules who, returning from Spain, stopped on the ‘Costa degli Dei’ and named Tropea one of the ports of Hercules. Due to its turquoise waters and white-sand beach, Tropea’s sea was nominated as one of most beautiful beaches in Europe by the UK’s Sunday Times.

This delightful little town has a medieval centre and an impressive Norman cathedral. The first time I visited this church was with a guided trip organised by my elementary school. I was impressed by the beautiful decorations and the stunning art works inside the church. One can smell history everywhere in this town. If you explore the streets you will find traces of the old town hall and fortifications which defended the landward side. Today, the town has spread out and after you have taken a stroll through the alleys and enjoyed refreshments in the shade of a cafe umbrella, you can go down to the sea, enjoy the beach and obtain the best views of Tropea’s Cittadella (small town).

In my country food is everything. People like cooking and eating good food. My grandmother used to say: ‘You can find the most delicious red onions in the world in Calabria.’ Crunchy and sweet these onions are perfect in a tomato salad. You can buy strings of onions along with other local foods and wines in the town; and for those who like hot and spicy food you will appreciate the region’s fiery products.

Scilla

Straight out of myths and legends, Scilla is a stunning seaside village in the southernmost part of the Calabria region. When I was in high school, I studied Greek mythology and I was surprised to discover that one of my favourite beaches was included in one of the great legends about the world of the gods. According to the great legend, Glauco, goddess of the sea fell in love with Scilla, a beautiful nymph. Circe, the goddess of magic became jealous of this love and transformed her into an ugly monster. The poor nymph ashamed of her appearance decided to live in the cave of the Strait of Messina (which connects Calabria and Sicily), where she seized passing sailors and devoured them.

In the village, you can admire the Marina Grande, the most modern part of Scilla, full of bars and restaurants, and the Castello Ruffo (Scilla’s fortress). A calm and relaxing atmosphere characterises this area. It is definitely the perfect place for a peaceful vacation.

Pizzo

This small village of Medieval origin is a picturesque network of narrow lanes, historical architecture and a bustling community. Piazza della Repubblica is the heart of the town, which hosts Pizzo’s night-life. Close to this square is the Castel Murat celebrated for being the place where Napoleon’s brother-in-law, Joachin Murat was executed. The church, Chiesetta of Piedigrotta (just outside Pizzo) dates back to seventeenth century and is located in a cave that is dug out of a rock. It is one of the most visited attractions in Calabria. But Pizzo is also famous for its Tarantella festival that takes place in the summer along the promenade of Pizzo. This event is exhilarating because the Tarantella is our traditional dance, well-known by the older generation but is becoming more popular among the younger generation. I go every year with my family and friends to these festivals in Calabria.

Pizzo is also popular for its delicious handmade ice-cream called ‘tartufo’, made from nuts and chocolate. Its popularity has spread throughout the country, but if you want to try the original tartufo you must come to Pizzo. The cafes around the main square all serve this amazing local speciality.

Capo Vaticano

Capo Vaticano is a seaside resort, known for its amazing cliffs, its breath-taking views and its crystal clear waters. The only way to travel anywhere in Capo Vaticano is on foot. Many bays can only be reached by sea while others remain secluded. The silence and the untouched flora found here are fantastic. Many say that Capo Vaticano has some of the most beautiful views in Italy and lovely spots to enjoy the incredible sunsets.

I had the good fortune of being born in one of the most fascinating countries in the world. However, it is quite sad that often, many foreigners decide to explore the popular cities of Italy forgetting the rest. Tropea, Scilla, Pizzo and Capo Vaticano are just a few examples of the breath-taking places you will find in the distant and historical region of Calabria.

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